Luxury watchmaking is experiencing a stunning transformation, with bangle watches emerging as a major growth driver for high-end brands. This trend isn't just about aesthetics; it's a strategic shift designed to capture the attention of younger, style-conscious consumers. But how did these elegant timepieces become so popular? Let's dive in.
From iconic names like Vacheron Constantin to Cartier and Chanel, heritage brands are investing heavily in gem-set designs and bangle formats. These creations beautifully blur the lines between a classic accessory and a valuable asset. For instance, Vacheron Constantin's Grand Lady Kalla, unveiled during its 270th-anniversary celebrations, showcases this perfectly. Initially launched with an all-diamond design in 2024, it now features variations in sapphire, ruby, and emerald. Each piece combines exquisite high-jewellery artistry with intricate technical precision, offering interchangeable components that transform from a watch to a bracelet or necklace.
The rise of bangle watches has been particularly rapid in the last five years, spearheaded by jewellery brands. In 2019, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced its Perlée Toi & Moi watches, featuring open bangles topped with colourful hardstones. These watches cleverly reveal the time by sliding one of the ornamental stones aside. This collection highlighted the brand's dual expertise in jewellery and horology, including its tradition of secret watches.
In 2021, Dior unveiled the Gem Dior watch alongside its jewellery collection, with irregular, jagged links reminiscent of fabric swatches and gemstone facets. That same year, Chaumet launched the Joséphine Aigrette, a pear-shaped watch inspired by its best-selling jewellery line. Boucheron also joined the trend with its Montres d’Exception collection, which includes several models set on rigid bangles, one of which traces the outline of Place Vendôme on its dial.
Rémi Jomard, director of product and innovation at Piaget, believes the debate over whether a bangle watch is a jewel or a timepiece is irrelevant. He quotes Yves Piaget, who stated, "A watch is first and foremost a piece of jewellery."
But here's where it gets controversial... The real turning point came in 2023 when Cartier reintroduced its Baignoire watch on a rigid gold bracelet at the Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva. Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier’s director of watchmaking and jewellery design, explained that instead of altering the watch, they aimed to wear it differently. The launch was an instant success, with most of the stock allocated even before the Baignoire mini bangle arrived. By mid-August, the 18ct yellow and rose gold versions, priced at €15,900, had sold out on Cartier’s website.
Kelly Best, head of UK watch buying for Watches of Switzerland, noted that the Cartier Baignoire's success lies in its ability to meet multiple trends. It embodies a smaller case size, the timeless appeal of precious metals (especially yellow gold), and a sleek bangle that's perfect for layering. Donatella Zappieri, a jewellery business development consultant, believes Cartier's Baignoire has created a new product category, setting a blueprint for others.
This autumn, two more hybrids debuted: Aeterna by Bvlgari and Chanel’s Première Galon, both reinterpreting popular classics. Jonathan Birnbaum, Bvlgari’s managing director for watches, links the Aeterna to the brand’s Viper jewellery collection, offering a more accessible version of its iconic Serpenti motif. At Chanel, Arnaud Chastaingt, director of the company’s Watchmaking Creation Studio, found inspiration for the new Première in the brand's couture codes, specifically the braid. He emphasizes that the rigid bangle is a direct translation of this couture element.
And this is the part most people miss... Chastaingt leaves the question of whether it's a jewel or a timepiece open, stating, "It is jewellery that tells time, and a watch that functions as a jewel."
What do you think? Are bangle watches the future of luxury timepieces? Do you see them as primarily jewellery or watches? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
